Clay has some good information on his website http://www.pinrepair.com/arcade/searaid.htm
It has been mostly restored already as you can see from the pictures. It does need some minor work, but it is in good working condition. The top back-glass is in pretty good condition, but the windows that observers can watch you playing your game through are a little scratched up – I think probably from someone scraping off a sticker or tape with something that was too sharp. The bottom back-glass is in very rough shape. I’m not sure if someone tried to clean off the back of this glass and removed the paint, or if it just fell off on its own, but either way, it’s difficult to make out most of the original art. I’m not sure if I will get these reproduced or not.
View through the observation windowThis is another game I remember from the skating rink when I was young. Probably from 1975-1979.
It is completely electro-mechanical except for the sound. It has some simple circuits that produce 1) a sonar “ping” sound, 2) a torpedo “swooshing” sound of the torpedo launching and going through the water, and 3) an explosion sound when the torpedo hits a ship.
Backglass Replacement
My Sea Raider had a lower backglass in seriously bad shape, and the upper backglass was scratched in the viewing port windows by someone probably trying to remove a sticker or something with a knife or scraper, so I figured I would replace them.
I found some posts on KLOV about a guy named Gary that reproduces them. About the same time I found him listing an upper backglass repro on eBay. I contacted Gary about the lower glass and he was able to reproduce both of them for me. Here’s what my lower backglass looked like before…
Yes, someone painted the back with some kind of black spray. I guess this was to stabilize the flaking paint, but look what it did to the look of the front!
It looked horrible on the game.
The lightbar arm has to come off and out to remove the “seascape”. The motor assembly for the control the arm has to come out to remove the arm. I removed the assembly, and then the lightbar arm by lifting it carefully up and out of the back/top of the cabinet.
Slide the target assembly straight out the bottom back by removing two screws that hold it in. Don’t forget to unplug the connector first.
Remove the “sea scape” by removing at least 4 hex head screws at the top on the sides and at least 2 long round head screws at the bottom. Be careful as the this assembly will fall/drop onto the jones plug connector at the bottom of the cabinet if you don’t support it. The cabinet must be tilted forward about 45 degrees or more in order to slide the assembly out the bottom/back of the cabinet. Also be careful because the sea scape material is brittle after more than 45 years. Many of my staples that hold it to it’s wood frame were no longer holding the material to the frame as the material had cracked around them.
Now you have access to the two boards that hold the bottom backglass in. While you’re here you might as well replace the blacklight, cause this is a pain in the butt to get this far! Also, check your bulbs in your lightbar, because it has to come out to change them, so while it’s out, might as well make sure they all are working, and clean them…
Once the screws are out remove the two boards, and then the backglass.
Reassemble in reverse order.
Here’s what it looks like with the new backglasses.
Ahhhh, much better…
Sound Repair
This game’s sound is working, but the explosion didn’t sound like I thought it should. It would make 2 quick ‘banging” sounds that were vaguely like an explosion, but just not like what you’d hope for. When you are firing a torpedo and hit another ship, there is a certain satisfaction that comes from a good explosion, so this had to be fixed!
I found an article where someone else was documenting repairing the sound on their Sea Raider. Luckily, the parts were all present on my machine.
In my game, the 500mfd capacitor had been replaced (I could tell because it was newer, plus it wasn’t soldered in (also, it was only 470mfd). I guess the previous owner must have been trying to fix it also. But even though they had replaced the cap, the sound still wasn’t quite right. I started to do some diagnosis. I tried larger and smaller value caps with no change in the sound. Then I tried with no cap – same sound. Obviously something else was wrong. I didn’t have a schematic, but as far as I could tell, there was only one other component in the that circuit – a really old diode. This picture shows the cap and diode.
I figured the diode had to be bad so I removed it and tested it. It measured 2 ohms resistance in both directions… that’s not right. I looked up the specs and found a similar diode in my stock and soldered it in. That was it, now the sound was working correctly. I think I need to go up to a 500mfd cap because the game is supposed to have a 2-3 second explosion, but the delay I’m getting with the 470 is about 1.5 seconds. A little longer would be nice, but I don’t have a cap rated at the right voltage on hand so that will have to wait.
Pictures for Evan
Close of up cap circled above. I twisted it around to see the writing on it.
The cap circled above looks to be a 1000uf 25v electrolytic.
The other item circled looks like a diode with “H640” written on it. Here’s a picture.
I just got a sea raider today. Neds some work. But sound works and it has a new black glass. I need help with repainting the cabinet fixing or replacing the lower black glass mine is plastic. I don’t know where to start.
Where can I get parts.
I just got a sea raider today. Neds some work. But sound works and it has a new black glass. I need help with repainting the cabinet fixing or replacing the lower black glass mine is plastic. I don’t know where to start.
Hi Ian, there are reproduction backglasses available, have a look up the thread of comments, there are links to a couple suppliers. https://www.petesgameroom.net/sea-raider-backglass-replacement/ As far as repairing backglasses, I’m not aware of anyone who does that. Most folks will touch up the backglass themselves. There are a number of google videos that illustrate the process.
If you look at the page for the gun game on this site, I detail the process of creating stencils and repainting the cabinet. The same process could be used for the Sea Raider.
Hope this helps!
Pete
Hi Gary!
I finally did find a guy who reproduces the backglass for Sea-Raider in Washington. However, it is basically a decall sandwiched between to pieces of plate glass...had to shave the glass a bit but it works. Anyway..Pete.. an old time EM mechanic is having difficulty getting the sights just rite on the game. The orange tube/pointer is missing..any suggestions? we have both been pulling out what is left of our hair. Thanks.. Happy New Year!
Hi Ian, sorry to hear about the trouble with the sights. Are you looking for a source for a replacement part? Can you send a picture of the area you are having trouble with?
Pete
Hi Pete! Well i found the orange sight to line up the ships with…but, have no idea where inside the periscope it would sit. Cn you tell me or bettter yet..reverse charges..on a phone calll? 732 453-4070? Thanks ever so much.
That’s great news! It’s so hard to find parts for these old games. I’m about 9 hours away from the game so I won’t be of much help. Do the parts catalog diagrams help at all?
Pete, I am going to take a pic and send it. Hopefully, you can tell me what is wrong/missing. Thanks! The orange plastic rod that I believe hangs down..is out because it broke. any chance you have a pic of what things are supposed to look like?
Hi Pete and other Sea Raider guys. Today is Juyl 23, 2022. My friend and I are trying to get the target alignment right and figure out exactly how the rod (orange) is supposed to be in the game above the scope. If anyone knows and is around…please contact me (732) 453-4070. Thanks!
Getting ready to begin work on my Sea Raider. When I looked through the view finder the left side was black. I attached an image showing the mirror at the lower part of the periscope after I removed the eye bezel base. Looks like it has black paint on it probably to hide the top of bottom of the view. Looks like mine turned sideways over time. Does anyone know if the black pained part of the mirror should be on the top or bottom of the mirror? My speaker was shot and will trying a new one today. Have a feeling will have to check the sound board or amp at a later date.
I have a Sea Raider that I got working except for the sound. My sound box is complete and works sometimes. Ping works fine but swoosh from torpedoes is sporadic. I replaced the 500mF cap and explosion is ok but I can’t seem to get the swoosh to work every time. Any thoughts?
Where did you get the Sea Raider service manual?
Hi David, I believe I got it from Marco Specialties.
Pete
Hi Peter, Ian, paul, David I purchased a sea raider also for $100 . I’m interested in any leads you guys if you found a parts person,s ! This is a great machine and very well put together. I’m trying to figure if the control motor 1801a -18rpm is suppose to keep going even when I push game over solenoid in? Also the Spector motor relays keep energizing when the control motor keeps going but maybe it’s going to fast if I slow motor down then it stops any thoughts on this is much appreciated. I’ve found a few documents. Parts catalog and schematics but any other resources you guys know of? I’m needing a 2 finger wiper part# 543-016 if you can help much appreciate it guys.
Hi Daniel, eBay and KLOV are the best sources for parts I have found.
You are correct that the score motor should stop when the game is over. Generally speaking, the score motor will continue running if there are contacts on steppers or relays that are dirty or not making contact and not allowing the machine to complete a circuit.
If you don’t have much experience with repairing electro-mechanical games like this, I’d recommend Clay’s videos – here’s a link http://www.pinrepair.com/top/ Top1 – the first video is all about electro-mechanical repair, and and really good.
Pete
Pete thanks for the reply to my question! Love your site great information and lots too look at.. Great stuff here.
Pete,
Can you send me a detailed step by step instruction how to get at the fluorescent black light? I did it years ago, but, I have since forgotten . I took the bottom stuff out to check the red light bulbs ( still good) and can see up into the cabinet where the bulb is, but , cannot reach it. If I remember, there is a way to do it from the front, but, I just can't remember and do not want to break the plastic behind the scope. Thanks!
Sorry, but I don’t recall myself. If I have time this weekend I’ll have a look and see if I can point you in the right direction.
Pete,
what is the easiest way to get a the black fluorescent light bulb in Midway's "Sea-Raider"? I changed one out years ago..but, have since forgotten how to get at the bulb. I think that there is a way to do it from the front of the game..but, I just cannot remember how to do it.
many thanks! Took a good look at the back..think I might have to dis-assemble the whole thing..I am scared to do it..Hope that I am wrong!
Do you have a source for the stencils for the art work on the front and sides of the game. I have one that was painted differently and want to bring it back to the original artwork
Hi Mark, Unfortunately I don’t, but if you want to try your hand at making your own, the Midway Flying Saucer restoration on this site shows how I did stencils for that game…
Pete
Hi Pete, just recently I made the mistake and turned down the opportunity on buying a Sea Raider game. It was out of state and I should have made the drive. You are very knowledgeable on this game so I wanted to ask you one question. Do you have any leads on were I may purchase one? I would appreciate any information you can give me. Thanks for your time. -Mike-
Hi Mike, I’m really sorry but I don’t have any good leads for you. It’s getting really difficult to find games like this these days it seems. They only made so many and very few of them were kept after their useful life. It’s amazing to me that any of these are still working in this day and age.
I’ll keep my eyes open and let you know if I see anything
Thanks so much Pere for getting back with me. Would it be possible for me to give you a call? I finally came across a Sea Raider machine. Everything is there but the sound does not work. If you would like you can call or text me 2487876502 at your convienence. Any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much, -Mike-
Hi Pete
I just purchased a sea raiders game. Everything works . Restoring the cabinet.
Only thing is I don’t have the target panel.
Would you know were I would purchase . Or someone who would build it? Long shot I know . Any help would be very much appreciated.
Thank you
Frank
Hi Frank, I’m not aware of any replacement parts or reproductions for this game, other than the backglasses… I’ll keep my eyes open for you.
Hey everyone that I talked to a while back time has flown by. Update on my sea raider. It’s all working. The stepper motor that kept turning and would not shut off come to find another little device in the motor that shuts it down was all bummed up with grease that had dried out. The unit up on the top that tells the the position of periscope was also gumed up took it all apart and lost one spring that shoot out and lost it. But made another. The sound board my ping and swash for torpedo launch is now working due to a broken wire. And replaced big cap think was 500uf 60v now explosion lasts for at 3secs. I clean the lights for torpedo but the film was messed up I put less in cause it was burning plastic and used some heat shrink film for circuit boards it’s yellow tint works great. I probably spent over100 hours in to it but was fun I enjoyed every minute until I lost the spring spent 2 hours searching LOL. Great news I just purchased a 1946 bally undersea raider it’s in ok shape but rats got to wiring sat in a garage for 35 years. Thanks petesgameroom for all the information he put up on here great to have information to get these games running! Thanks pete.
When viewing the Midway Sea Raider game via the spectator window, the lighting of the scene is perfect. However, when looking thru the periscope, as the shooter, the lighting seems too dim. Can someone assist?